Forget much of what you may have heard about Arab states. Almost anything goes in Dubai, which is perhaps the most international and outward looking of the United Arab Emirates.
The ruling Maktoum family realised long ago that trade and tourism were the way forward, which brought about a flood of investment and an unprecedented building boom.
The result is a remarkable urban landscape, including major landmarks such as the soaring, sail-shaped Burj Al Arab hotel, and the luxury man-made islands known as The Palm, as well as The World, which is nearing completion.
Glimpses of the old Dubai still remain, however – in the souks, mosques and the renovated Bastakiya area – offering a slightly bewildering mix of east and west.
But most tourists visit for the guaranteed sun, excellent hotels, white-sand beaches and decent shopping, which have made Dubai one of the most popular destinations to escape the northern European chill.
Top five sights
1. Dubai Museum
Set in a historical fort, the Dubai Museum offers a snapshot of the social history of the Emirate, as well as other parts of the UAE. The centerpiece is a reconstructed souk from Dubai's pearling days, complete with authentic sights and sounds. There is also, understandably, a major focus on the speed of the area's transition from poor pearling village to modern metropolis.
Al Ibn Abi Talib Street
00 971 4 353 1862
www.dubaitourism.ae
Sat-Thurs 8.30am-7.30pm, Fri 2pm-7.30pm
AED 3 (£0.40). 2. Jumeirah Mosque
Considered by many to be one of the most attractive mosques in the region and also, importantly for visitors, one of the few which is open to non-Muslims for tours.
Jumeirah Road, Jumeirah 1
00 971 4 230 0000
www.dubaitourism.ae/jumeirah-mosque
No bookings; tours leave from outside the main entrance at 10am on Sun and Thurs, followed by a question-and-answer session about Islam
AED 10 (£0.15). 3. The Dubai Ski Centre
Located in the Mall of the Emirates (MOE), this offers you the opportunity to escape the heat outside and go skiing and snowboarding on a snow-covered slope, which by indoor standards is very large indeed.
Sheikh Zayed Road
009714 409 4000
www.skidubai.com
Sun-Wed 10am-11pm, Thurs-Sat 10am-midnight
AED 70-AED 270 (£9.30-£36). A typical two-hour package costs AED 140 (£18.66). 4. Wild Wadi
A fabulous state-of-the-art water park, widely regarded as one of the best in the world. Located right next door to the Jumeriah Beach Hotel, the park has a choice of fairly gentle rides as well as some designed with the more adventurous in mind.
009714 348 4444
www.wildwadi.com
Jan-Feb 11am-6pm, Mar-May 11am-7pm, June-Aug 11am-9pm, Sept-Dec 11am-5pm
AED 150 (£20). 5. Bastakiya
For an atmospheric glimpse of Old Dubai – and a startling contrast to the modern high-rises – visit this recently renovated conservation area. Sand-coloured stone houses line the narrow lanes and open up onto shady courtyards, many given over to art galleries and cafés. The Sheikh Mohamed Centre for Cultural Understanding offers walking tours (www.cultures.ae). Top five hotels
1. Burj Al Arab
The Burj Al Arab, which means Arabian Tower, is perhaps Dubai's best-known landmark, with a sail-like structure perched on a man-made island off Jumeirah Beach. Symbolic of Dubai's urban transformation, it is recognised as one of the world's most luxurious hotels (it claims to be the world's first "seven-star" hotel), featuring a vast atrium, several excellent restaurants and a helipad.
2. Emirates Towers Hotel
This ultra-modern hotel is right in the centre of the city, so perhaps better suited for business travellers than for those visiting for leisure. All the rooms are fitted with the latest high-tech equipment and have wonderful views over the city and the hotel's extensive landscaped gardens.
3. Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa
The Al Maha, a 45-minute drive from the centre of Dubai, is a Bedouin-camp-style hotel, set deep in a desert game reserve with views of rolling sand dunes and the Hajar Mountains. The spacious, luxurious suites have their own private swimming pools.
4. Raffles Dubai
Raffles is yet another iconic building on the Dubai skyline, this time in the form of a dramatic pyramid structure, which comes complete with a one-hectare "Raffles Sky Garden" which is designed to depict the four elements of life – fire, wind, earth and water. The hotel, only about 10 minutes from Dubai International Airport, is right in Wafi City, so very handy if you want to do some shopping or try the nightlife.
5. Orient Guest House
A far cry from most of Dubai’s large-scale five stars, this small boutique hotel is located in the attractive, rejuvenated Bastakiya district. The rooms, in a two-room villa, aim for a traditional Arabian feel, with four-poster beds and dark wood furniture. The hotel has an attractive courtyard café, and guests have access to the nearby Arabian Courtyard spa and outdoor swimming pool.
Top five restaurants
1. Café Chic
This hotel restaurant serves excellent French nouvelle cuisine produced by Michelin-starred chef Philippe Gauvreau, served from an airy open kitchen. Don't miss the desserts, including an outstanding lemon tart. The set menus offer good value for money.
2. Legends Steakhouse
This superb waterfront restaurant is part of the Creek Golf Clubhouse, very well known to locals but yet to maket its mark on the tourist map. Overlooking bustling Dubai Creek it provides not only excellent food, including the city's best steaks, but great views as well.
3. Palm Grill
Primarily steaks but with plenty of other dishes too, including decent seafood such as oysters and prawns, plus a handful of Oriental fusion dishes. Set within the Radisson SAS hotel, the Palm Grill has become a firm favourite with local expats. If you are really hungry opt for a 300g US ribeye steak or a 200g Australian filet mignon.
4. Splendido
Just a short distance from the beach, the Splendido in the Ritz-Carlton is perhaps the best Italian restaurant in Dubai. Specialities include home-made pasta filled with ricotta and spinach or black ink tagliolini with pesto, truffle oil and sautéed prawns. The chocolate crème brulee is a highlight on the dessert menu.
5. Al Muntaha
One of the best locations in Dubai, located on the 27th floor of the Burj al Arab hotel, the Al Muntaha offers outstanding views, and similarly impressive food. Dishes include seared scallops, line-caught sea bass with saffron, and prawns with foie gras.
Within the Burj Al Arab hotel, Jumeirah Beach Road
00971 4 301 7777
www.burj-al-arab.com
AED 400 (£53.30). Bars and nightlife
This may be one of the most tolerant of the Arab States but it doesn't mean you can flout the rules and drink wherever you choose; indeed there are very few bars actually at street level.
That said, there's plenty going on if you seek it out, and much of the late-night bar scene takes place in the many five-star hotels.
Some of the hottest nightspots and bars at present include the Buddha Bar in the Grosvenor House Dubai at Jumeirah. Similar to its sister in Paris, this slightly pretentious lounge bar serves good cocktails and remains incredibly popular.
If you want to drink with a top view, head for Vu's Bar on the 51st floor of the Emirates Towers Hotel in the city centre. A good beach-side location is the Rooftop Bar at the One & Only Royal Mirage hotel, perfect for sun-downers.
The Thai-style Lotus One, on the ground floor of the World Trade Convention Centre (Sheikh Zayed Road), has chairs suspended from the ceilings above a glass floor.
Shopping
Retail therapy is available from dozens of shopping centres and malls around town, usually from 10am right through until 11pm.
Among those worth seeking out is the Ibn Battuta Mall, notable for its over-the-top design, with six courts themed around the traditional architecture of China, India, Persia, Egypt, Tunisia and Andalucia.
The Al Ain Plaza on Mankhool Road specialises in computers, laptops and accessories.
Deira City Centre is one of the most popular malls in Dubai with shops such as Debenhams, Virgin Megastore, Zara and other international high street brands, as well as a multiplex cinema and a large "Arabian Treasures" textiles area. At the Mall of the Emirates, the latest top name to open its doors includes the biggest Harvey Nichols store outside the UK.
The Gold Souk in Deira is one of the more startling sights in the city. Most of the gold is 22ct quality and quite expensive, though many of the shopkeepers are prepared to bargain. Items are sold by weight with a "making charge" added to cover the workmanship. It pays, therefore, to check the current gold price.
